Monday, August 25, 2008

My famous Uncle who worked with the Nagas

“Ambush is all you worry about. Can I construct a mountain road cocooned inside this Circuit House, by the army? Here’s where we’ll build the road.” Raj traces a finger over a wooded area. “Since it connects twenty villages, I’ll meet all twenty Gaonburas.”
“B-B…But the Nagas slaughtered the engineer before us in cold blood!” says the Officer.
“Relax! This is no close encounter with head hunters. They killed him when he tried to build the road in their territory employing outside labor,” admonishes Raj.
“So be it, Sir!” the Officer stomps off in a huff.
20 Naga Gaonburas meet Raj at the Circuit House. Placing their offerings at his feet, they walk backwards with respect.
“Dear friends,” Raj greets them as equals, “I’ve been sent to build a road that will benefit you all. Your state is so undeveloped because of no roads.”
“Sir,” replies the chief Gaonbura, “How can we simple folk build this road?”
“I have a plan,” says Raj. “You must build it yourself. We won’t thrust any outsider on you. I’ll walk alongside to show you the alignment and leave an engineer at each village to guide you.”
“We’ll cooperate, if you pay us Delhi rates, Sir,” insist the Gaonburas.
Raj submits to their demands. No seasoned laborer from Delhi can match the Nagas’ firm foothold in these rugged hills, he thinks.
“We’ll keep strict accounts-on a bamboo pole with cuts, Sir,” warn the Gaonburas.
“Hmmm,” agrees Raj eliminating all middlemen to work directly with the Nagas. This builds confidence and is cost effective. Teamwork is an intrinsic part of Naga traditions.
“First, we’ll scrutinize the cadastral map,” decides Raj, marking the road to be aligned. Raj treks 57 miles with his motley team of engineers and Gaonburas. With a sports champion’s stamina, Raj surges towards his goal, leaving an engineer with each village.
“We’ll make their basha (shelters) and supply all food,” the Gaonburas reassure him.
“Thank you,” says Raj.
The road alignment complete, Raj returns home without a convoy. “He’s a friend- not foe!” rings a bamboo whistle from hill to hill and Raj’s journey home is quick and safe.
Boom! Raj’s engineers blast the hillside to construct the road.
“Get going!” the Gaonburas mobilize their villagers.
“Where are the tools?”
“Pick axes, shovels, lathis, mamooty. Use anything.”
Hardy Naga folk dig up boulders, crack stones, and rig shelters, to work non stop at the site.
“We can do it!” From the Aos to the Zeliangs, all tribes work side by side. Pending for over two years, Nagaland now has 57 miles of strategic road within four months.
Villagers gather to celebrate, " Fill us up with modhu (rice beer) guys!”
A hornbill feather, cowries, beads, beetle wings and boar tusks - each Naga is arrayed in their vibrant shawls adorned with powerful symbols defining their status in the tribe.
Drums pound, men grab Raj’s hands to sweep him into a victory dance. Dhum-dhula-dhum!
How can Raj say goodbye? The Nagas tie a ponytail of beads on Raj’s hair.
“You’re a son of Nagaland.”

“How did you do it?” ask the Press.
“I didn’t.” Raj corrects them. “They did.”

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